|
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
| Will
roses grow in shade? |
| Roses will not grow
in full shade, but some roses may grow in partial or long shade.
Roses will grow if they receive at least 5 to 6 hours sun each
day -- of course, all day sun is preferred. If it is a choice
between all morning sun or all afternoon sun, then morning sun
is preferred. |
| How
much sun do my roses need to grow? |
| Roses need at least
5 to 6 hours of sun each day to grow, but they prefer all day
sun. |
| Can
I plant roses next to the foundation of my house? |
| Yes. It's best to
keep them at least 2 to 3 feet away from the house. Also, remember
that near the house foundation is usually a very dry location
as well as a hot one, so water more heavily and more frequently. |
| Must
roses have good soil drainage? |
| Yes. Most soils will
drain well enough for good growing conditions. It is only in
the very heavy tight clay soils through which water cannot drain
away, that drainage for your roses is needed. |
| Can
I improve the poor soil on my property sufficiently to grow
roses? |
| Yes. The only important
difference between good soil and poor soil is that good soil
contains sufficient organic matter and fertility, drainage,
and poor soil does not. Poor soils can be improved sufficiently
by making a mixture of 1/4 to 1/3 organic matter. (Peat moss,
rotted manure, humus, compost) and 3/4 to 2/3 existing soil
plus 4 pounds of a well-balanced fertilizer, for each 100 square
feet of rose bed you are preparing. All this should be mixed
thoroughly together to a depth of 14 to 18 inches. |
| Can
I plant roses too close together or too far apart? |
| Yes. Spacing roses
from 20 inches to 30 inches apart produces the best results.
Wider spacing than 30 inches make the plants stand out as individuals
and you lose the intimate mass effect a rose garden should present.
Closer spacing than 20 inches will crowd the plants and restrict
their growth. |
| Can
I mix hybrid tea, floribunda, and grandiflora roses in the same
bed? |
| Yes. An excellent
effect can be achieved from mixing different types of roses
in the same bed if you keep the lower growing varieties to the
outside of the bed and the taller ones to the center and background
where they will not be hidden. |
| Must
roses be planted in beds by themselves as in a rose garden? |
| No. Roses may be used
extensively in landscaping to produce a very colorful and interesting
effect. |
| Are
climbing roses restricted to use on fences, trellises and arbors? |
| No. Climbing roses
may be used to cover many things such as walls, buildings, tree
stumps, and steep slopes for ground cover. They may be trained
to a post to create a pylon effect and some of the less vigorous
varieties may be pruned to form a pillar or large shrub effect. |
| Can
tree roses be grown successfully in cold climates? |
| Yes. If other roses
can be grown there successfully, then tree roses may also be
grown. An important item to remember is that in areas where
the temperatures fall below 10°F in winter, tree roses must
have careful winter protection by wrapping them with insulating
material to protect them from the cold and wind. In the colder
areas where the temperatures fall below zero, the only adequate
protection for tree roses is to lift them in late fall before
very severe freezing weather and bury them in a trench covering
them completely with a foot or more of earth. |
| Must
I use hedge type roses only to create a hedge? |
| No. Hedge type roses
may be used in most all locations and most all types of roses
may be used to create hedges. The only limiting factors are
what you desire from the rose, the location in which you plant
it and the care it receives. |
| Is
an exposed, wind swept location a detriment to growing roses? |
| Yes, a wind swept
location is usually a dry one in summer and a cold exposed one
in winter. Some shelter is desirable provided it does not also
carry with it too much shade or root competition from other
plants. |
| Is
there an advantage to planting roses in Spring? |
| Yes, but it really
depends on your climate. Spring is the time of year when plants
awake from dormancy and begin to grow. It is the time of year
when we are most tired of winter and get the urge to plant things
and see plants begin to grow. Roses planted in spring begin
growing within 2 to 3 weeks after planting and about 6 to 8
weeks more they will be in bloom. Spring planted roses have
all summer to become established and are better able to go through
the winter without injury. |
| Is
there an advantage to planting roses in Fall? |
Yes. The weather and
soil conditions at planting time are usually better in the fall
than in spring. The soil is usually wet and muddy and the weather
unsettled in spring. A rose planted in the fall is usually somewhat
established by spring and will bloom earlier in the season.
Rose availability, however, is more limited in the fall. In
some we offer container roses that can be planted throughout
the season. Check "Our Roses" and when you see the
pot symbol that will indicate that the roses are available in
pots.
You can easily contact
one of our customers by clicking here. Contact them to inquire
about their Star® Rose availability. |
| Is
there an advantage to planting boxed or package roses? |
| It depends. Boxed
and packaged roses are available earlier in the season. They
may be successfully planted in quite cold weather, as they have
not yet begun to grow. They may also have a slight price advantage
and they make wonderful gifts for Mother's Day, Birthdays or
house warming gifts. |
| Is
there an advantage to planting potted roses? |
| Yes. The potted rose
has begun to grow when you receive it and is often in bud and
bloom, giving you the advantage of a started plant. The potted
rose can be successfully planted late in the season or even
during the summer when dormant roses are no longer available,
or practical to plant. Potted roses are also a little easier
to plant, as there is no concern about getting the earth firmly
placed between and under the roots, because the roots are encased
in a ball of earth. |
| Should
I mound the earth over the top of the potted rose when I plant
it? |
| No. If the potted
rose has begun to grow when you receive it, mounding is unnecessary.
If there is no growth on the potted rose, and there really should
be when you purchase it, then a mount of soil 8 to 10 inches
high over the stems of the rose would be advisable. Check in
our How to Plant a Star for additional planting information. |
| What
size should be rose beds be? |
| Rose beds should be
at least 3 feet wide so that 2 or more rows of roses may be
planted to give sufficient volume of color for the most pleasing
effect. |
| Is
there an advantage to preparing a rose bed ahead of planting
time? |
| Yes. The soil in a
rose bed prepared at least 3 to 6 weeks ahead of time has a
chance to settle down before planting so that there is less
settling afterward and less danger of the plants being too low
later on. Also, the soil will be in better condition and the
fertilizer more diffused in the prepared bed. A third advantage
is that with bed preparation already completed, the planting
can be done more quickly which is very essential. |
| Should
I plant dormant roses as soon as I receive them? |
| Yes. The sooner you
plant roses after you receive them, the better they will grow.
If you cannot plant the roses as soon as you receive them, they
can be stored in a cool place where they will not freeze for
several days. Do not open the box until you are ready to plant. |
| Can
I get too much organic matter in the soil preparation of a rose
bed? |
| Yes. This, however,
is seldom the case as usually too little organic matter is used.
Amounts up to 50% organic matter can be used. More than that
amount would make the soil too light or porous. |
| Can
I use too much fertilizer in planting roses? |
| Yes. This is a common
fault. Do not use more than four pounds of fertilizer per 100
square feet of rose bed area and then mix it thoroughly with
the soil to a depth of 15 to 18 inches. Preparation 3 to 6 weeks
ahead of planting will also reduce danger of fertilizer injury. |
| Can
I prepare individual holes for each rose 18 inches wide and
18 inches deep instead of a whole rose bed? |
| Yes. However, complete
rose bed preparation 18 inches deep is better. |
| Is
it essential to water a newly planted rose heavily at planting
time? |
| Yes. A heavy application
of approximately a bucketful of water applied to the rose when
the hole is about 2/3 filled with firmed earth is usually sufficient.
It helps to settle the earth and moisten it thoroughly around
the roots of the rose. |
| Must
earth be mounted over the tops of dormant roses as soon as they
are planted? |
| Yes. It is extremely
necessary to mound earth over the tops of newly planted roses
in spring or fall to a height of 8 to 10 inches. The mound should
remain till the new growth shoots are about an inch long in
spring when it should be removed. |
| Should
I wait till I see insects and diseases to begin to spray or
dust my roses? |
| No. It is very important
to prevent insects and diseases in your roses by beginning to
spray or dust, both newly planted and established roses as soon
as growth begins and the little leaves are about 3//4 inch long.
Use a multi-purpose rose spray or dust once or twice a month
until frost in the fall. |
| Should
I prune my roses each spring? |
| Yes. For best results,
cut back Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, and Grandiflora roses to between
10 to 18 inches from the ground. Remove all winter injured or
damaged wood. Prune climbing roses only as needed to control
their size. Remove the older wood. Prune sparingly as the top
is needed for bloom. For more information see How to Prune a
Rose. |
| Should
I coat the ends of cut off canes with a cane sealer or tree
wound dressing? |
| This is not necessary
but it could help prevent the entrance of stem borers in the
rose canes. |
| Should
I feed my established roses more than once each season? |
| Though this is not
essential in good soils every year, established roses can be
fed up to 3 times a season. The first feeding of 1/2 cup per
plant of a well balanced fertilizer should be applied any time
after the roses have gone dormant in late fall or early winter
and before March 1st in spring. This gives the fertilizer an
opportunity to penetrate deeply into the soil so that the roots
can absorb it when the rose begins to grow in spring. The second
feeding should be made as the rose finishes its spring bloom
and the third feeding in late July or early August. The second
and third feedings should be 1/4 to 1/3 cup of fertilizer to
each plant. If possible, cultivate the fertilizer into the soil
around the rose and water it thoroughly to assist in making
the fertilizer readily available to the rose. |
| Should
I feed newly planted roses as heavily as established roses? |
| No. Newly planted
roses should be fed only once after planting the first season.
One fourth to one third of a cup of fertilizer per plant added
when giving the established roses their third feeding in late
July or early August is sufficient. |
| Can
I overfeed my roses? |
| Yes. Overfeeding roses
is a very serious offense and in extreme cases, can cause them
to die. If the above schedule is followed, it is unlikely that
you will overfeed your roses. |
| Should
roses be watered during dry weather? |
| Yes. Like many vigorous
ornamental plants, roses need quite a quantity of water and
in dry weather the gardener must supply this. A thorough soaking
once a week when the rains are not sufficient is the better
procedure. Permit the water to run slowly into the rose bed
and to penetrate to a depth of 15 to 18 inches. Keep the water
off of the leaves of the roses. |
| Does
mulch help to conserve the moisture in the garden? |
| Yes. A 2-inch layer
of shredded bark, cocoa bean hulls, etc. Over the rose bed will
help a great deal in conserving moisture, eliminating weeds
and relieving the necessity for cultivating. |
| Should
the bloom be removed from rose plants as it matures? |
| Although this is not
necessary, it will encourage more blooms on Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras
and Floridundas. If spent blooms are not removed, a great deal
of strength which could produce more blooms is lost in producing
the rose seed which follows the bloom and which is of little
or no value to the rose gardener. It is not practical or necessary
to do this with our Climbers, Meidiland Shrub Roses, or Landscape
Roses. |
| Should
roses be pruned or cut back during the summer? |
| No. Cutting back rose
bushes in summer will weaken them, as they need all the top
growth they produce as the food of the rose is manufactured
in the leaves or top of the rose. Some limited pruning may be
done if a plant needs to be restricted due to its location.
Also, June blooming Climbers may be cut back just after the
bloom to control the plant. |
| Should
roses be sprayed during hot weather? |
| Yes. Insects and diseases
do not relax in hot weather so spraying is advisable if the
plants are to be kept free from pests. Avoid using sulfur or
Karathane in hot weather (temperature above 75 to 80 degrees)
for mildew control. |
| Can
I control mildew in hot weather without using sulfur or Karathane? |
| Yes. Light infestations
of mildew and other fungal diseases are generally easily controlled
using an all-purpose fungicide containing funginex. |
| Can
Japanese beetles be controlled? |
| Yes. Japanese Beetles
can be controlled but not completely eliminated. Regular spraying
with "Sevin" will control most beetles. The use of
biological controls such as the "Milky Spore" is also
beneficial, to control the grub stage of the beetle. |
| Can
I eliminate blackspot from my roses? |
| The best way is to
plant varieties that are naturally resistant to disease if you
live in a heavy blackspot area. Also, spraying with a general
all-purpose fungicide 1-2 times per month will keep your plants
clean. |
| Is
it essential to spray for spider mites on a preventive basis? |
| Yes. Spider mites
are so small that most gardeners do not realize that they are
present till the damage is done. In warm dry weather, mites
develop quickly. Spray every two to three weeks with a general-purpose
insecticide. |
| Is
a multi-purpose spray effective against all the above-mentioned
pests? |
| Yes. A multi-purpose
spray containing the right materials and conscientiously applied
is effective in controlling rose pests. |
| If
my roses have been defoliated (they don't have any leaves) badly
due to neglect during the summer, should I feed heavily to encourage
foliage in the fall? |
| No. This is very detrimental
as the new growth, is can also injure, or weaken the plant. |
| Are
the heavy growth stems that come from the base of the rose in
late summer and early fall "wild" or "sucker"
growth? |
| No. These are usually
new and good canes for your rose. If they harden off sufficiently
before cold weather they are fine new canes that should be preserved.
If the shoots come from below the knuckle or bud union, they
are "wild growth", or suckers and should be removed. |
| What
is "wild" or "sucker" growth? |
| These are shoots or
branches of the under stock that begin to grow below the bud
union. If you notice this sucker growth do not cut or prune
it, you must pull it from point where it originates from he
plant. |
| What
is "wild" or "sucker" growth? |
| These are shoots or
branches of the under stock that begin to grow below the bud
union. If you notice this sucker growth do not cut or prune
it, you must pull it from point where it originates from he
plant. |
| Are
all stems that contain leaves composed of seven leaflets "wild
growth"? |
| No. Almost all roses
will have leaves composed of 3 - 5 - 7 - and even 9 leaflets.
The growth must come from below the knuckle or bud union to
be "wild" or "sucker" growth. |
| If
I find growth coming from below the knuckle or bud union, should
I cut if off? |
| No. Cutting off "sucker"
or "wild" growth does not remove the source of the
trouble and often causes in to grow that much more vigorously
and instead of one shoot when cut back, often two or more shoots
will grow out. The proper way to remove a sucker growth is to
remove earth carefully from the base of the plant until you
get down to where the sucker originates from the root of the
rose. Then actually tear or gouge the sucker out of the root
so that you remove the bud from which the sucker originated. |
| Is
a dormant spray of lime sulfur of value to the roses? |
| Yes. A dormant spray
of Lime-Sulfur applied after the roses have become dormant in
fall or before they begin to grow in spring can, to a great
degree, eliminate disease and insects that "winter over"
on the plant. This is especially worthwhile if stem canker is
a problem in the garden. The one caution is applying dormant
spray is that the temperature must be 40 degrees or higher for
3 to 4 hours after the spray is applied. |
| Is
it desirable to cut back bush roses in the fall before winter
arrives? |
| Yes. There are several
benefits derived from cutting bush roses back in the fall to
a height of 2-1/2 feet especially in areas that normally receive
a great deal of snow, sleet, and heavy winds. Cutting the stems
back to 2-1/2 feet will remove the brushy, twiggy top growth
that normally collects and holds snow and sleet that normally
causes broken stems over winter. Removing the twiggy growth
also reduces wind resistance and the whipping and loosening
of plants from brisk March winds. Where snow, sleet, and wind
are not a problem, it is not essential to cut back in the fall. |
| Should
I cut my climbers back in the fall? |
| No. Pruning climbers
is quite different from bush roses. June blooming climbers such
as Paul's Scarlet, Dr. Van Fleet, Spanish Beauty, etc., may
be cut back immediately after they bloom. The growth they make
that summer will produce bloom the following spring. Cutting
back in fall would mean no bloom in spring. Repeat and everblooming
climbers should never to cut back severely unless the gardener
is willing to sacrifice bloom for a year or more. The better
plan is to thin out the repeat and everblooming climbers, removing
the very old and unproductive wood. Also, in removing bloom
from this type of rose, do not remove long stems as the repeat
bloom often comes from these stems. |
| Can
climbers be trained in any particular manner to encourage bloom? |
| Yes. Train the canes
out in a horizontal manner along a fence or support parallel
to the ground. This encourages more bloom when training them
in a vertical manner. |
| Is
it essential to cut back the hedge roses each year? |
| No. Hedge roses will
bloom better if they are not cut back each year. Moderate pruning
may be done each year to keep the hedge within the desired bounds. |
| Is
it necessary to protect hedge roses over winter? |
| No. Hedge roses are
hardy without protection in most climates. |
| Is
winter protection necessary in the more temperate areas where
the temperature seldom, if ever, falls below zero? |
| No. If roses are properly
maintained, sprayed or dusted carefully, and disease and insect
injury prevented, roses are hardy to several degrees below zero.
If they are neglected and are weak when they go into the winter,
they should have a mound of earth at least 8 to 10 inches high
placed over the crown of the rose and up into the stems. |
| If
roses have been growing in one location for some time and begin
to deteriorate, can they be revived? |
Yes, usually roses
can, and will usually do well in the same bed for years and
years. Usually such a condition has been brought about by a
deterioration of the soil in the rose bed. The first step should
be a complete soil test in which you learn the Ph of the soil
as to whether lime is needed. You should also learn whether
additional organic matter is needed and this is very important
as organic matter can decompose and disappear very readily and
if not replaced regularly, causes a serious detriment in the
growth. You must also learn the level of fertility of the soil
in essential nutrients, nitrogen, PhosPhorus, and potash as
well as the minor elements.
A. When the status of the soil has
been determined, steps may be taken to correct existing problems.
If complete re-preparation of the soil is needed, it may be
done a small section at a time and the roses transplanted into
the newly prepared area directly from an unprepared area. It
is also a good plan to discard any very poor plants during the
transplanting process and replace them with new ones. Keep in
mind that when transplanting the existing roses, they should
be cut back, all poor or affected growth removed, and that they
should be replanted just as a new rose.
B. The assurance of success of the
project depends greatly on the program of maintenance that follows
the transplanting. Regular preventive spraying, watering, feeding,
etc. Are very necessary to give the ultimate in results. |
| Is
calcium, as found in lime (Ca Co3) necessary to roses? |
| Yes. Calcium is necessary
to the healthy growth of practically all plant life. However,
it is a mistake to add lime to a soil without first learning
what calcium is needed and also what the Ph of the soil is,
too low (acid) will need to be corrected. Lime raises the Ph
value of the soil and if sufficient lime is added, will change
a soil from acid to alkaline. Roses enjoy a neutral (Ph 7.0)
to slightly acid (Ph 6.0) soil reaction. They will tolerate
quite a variation in the soil Ph but will tolerate a greater
degree of acidity than alkalinity. |
| Can
I add calcium when needed in the soil without affecting the
Ph of the soil? |
| Yes. Gypsum (Calcium
Sulfate) will supply the calcium without changing the Ph. |
| If
one or more individual elements of fertility are needed to correct
a deficiency, can I add these elements without using a balanced
commercial fertilizer? |
| Yes. Individual materials
such as Ammonium Sulfate or Calcium Sulfate for nitrogen, SuperPhosPhate
for PhosPhorus, and Muriate of Potash for potassium. |
| Is
manure beneficial to roses? |
| Yes. Manure and especially
aged cow manure is beneficial to roses but it is a mistake to
rely on it as the sole food for roses as it is not a completely
balanced food. |
| If
roses are growing vigorously and producing a great deal of foliage
but few blooms, can this be corrected? |
| Yes. If the variety
is normally a good bloomer, this condition is usually attributed
to an over-abundance of nitrogen. |
| Can
"weak neck" (the inability of the stem to support
the bloom in an upright position) be corrected or aided? |
| Yes. If this is not
an inherent characteristic of the particular variety, the addition
of PhosPhorus to the soil can aid in strengthening the stems.
Also make certain that the roses are receiving sufficient sun
as shade can also cause weak stems. |
| Can
"weak neck" (the inability of the stem to support
the bloom in an upright position) be corrected or aided? |
| No. This is often
a natural characteristic of the variety of rose. Also, this
condition is more prevalent in the cool weather of Spring and
Fall. |
| Can
I transplant old established roses successfully? |
| Yes. If the transplanting
is done while the plants are dormant in late Fall or early Spring,
it is relatively easy. The plants should be cut back at time
of transplanting to 12 to 15 inches and handled as one would
a new plant. |
| Is
it injurious to put manure against the stems of a rose? |
| Yes. Manures against
the stems of a rose can help create a fungus in the stems of
the rose causing a deterioration or dieback. |
| Is
there anywhere in the USA that roses cannot be grown? |
| No. Given proper preparation
and adequate maintenance, roses will grow anywhere in the USA
where the sun shines at least 5 to 6 hours per day. |
| Are
Miniature roses really roses? |
| Yes. They are tiny
roses, having been created through hybridizing the Rosa Chinensis
Minima, a dwarf strain of rose from the Orient. |
| Are
Miniature roses hardy out-of-doors? |
| Yes. They are hardy
out-of-doors in locations where other garden roses will grow. |
| Can
Miniature roses be grown indoors in pots successfully? |
| Yes. If Miniature
roses are given sufficient humidity, light, and soil moisture,
and are not subjected to excessively high temperatures, they
are relatively easy to grow. |
| Can
Miniature roses be grown in porch boxes or window boxes? |
| Yes. If given sufficient
care, Miniature roses will do well in porch or window boxes. |
| Do
Miniature roses make good plants for borders or edgings to gardens? |
| Yes. There distinctly
dwarf habit of growth (10 to 15 inches height) makes them ideal
for edgings or borders. |
| Are
Miniature roses successful as rock garden plants? |
| Yes. Their dwarf compact
nature as well as all season bloom makes them ideally suited
to rock garden planting. |
| Are
Miniature roses everblooming? |
| Yes. Miniature roses
are everblooming in the same sense that other garden roses are
everblooming. |
| Are
Miniature roses available in the various typical rose colors? |
| Yes. Miniature roses
are available in the usual rose colors, shades, and blends of
color. |
| Do
Miniature roses need spraying or dusting? |
| Yes. For best results
Miniature roses should be sprayed or dusted regularly once or
twice a month. |
| Is
my regular rose spray or dust suitable for use on Miniature
roses? |
| Yes. A multi-purpose
rose spray or dust or their various components may be used safely
and effectively on Miniature roses. |
| Is
it necessary to make any special soil preparation for Miniature
roses other than my regular rose soil for outdoor planting? |
| No. Miniature roses
may be grown in any properly prepared rose bed containing a
mixture of 1/4 to 1/2 organic matter and the balance the existing
soil. |
| Is
this same mixture of soil suited to pot growing of Miniatures
indoors? |
| Yes. This would be
especially true if the soil used was of a sandy and gravelly
nature. However, if a very heavy clay soil were used, then equal
parts of soil, coarse sand, and peat moss would make a better
mixture. |
| Do
Miniature roses require much water out-of-doors in the ground? |
| Yes. Out-of-doors
in the ground, due to their relatively shallow root systems,
they need frequent and careful watering to prevent drying out. |
| Do
Miniature roses require much water indoors in pots? |
| Yes. Correct watering,
along with sufficient light, is the most important single item
in the maintenance of Miniature roses indoors. While the soil
should not be kept soggy wet, it should not be permitted to
dry out badly and certainly not for any extended length of time.
If kept dry for more than a day, the rose can be badly injured,
if not killed completely. A daily check on soil moisture is
advisable. If course, the larger pot in which the Miniature
is growing, the less chance there is for its drying out badly.
Then too, the higher the organic content of the soil, and the
higher the humidity content of the air in the home, the less
chance there would be for drying out and injury. |
| Is
high humidity an important factor in successful indoor growing
of Miniature roses in pots? |
| Yes. High humidity
is on of the essential elements to success with Miniature roses
indoors. Dry air, especially when it is also accompanied by
high temperatures, will dehydrate the tops if the Miniature
roses and cause the foliage as well as the bloom buds to shed
from the plant. |
| Do
Miniature roses require as much fertilizer as the larger bush
type garden roses? |
| No. Miniature roses
enjoy frequent but relative light feeding both indoors and out-of-doors.
If soluble fertilizers are used, they should be applied at the
manufacturers recommended strength for potted plants. Each month
to 6 weeks, the soil in the pot or the soil around the plant
out-of-doors should be thoroughly moistened. |
| Does
the Miniature roses need protection out-of-doors over winter? |
| Yes. In sections of
the country where the garden roses need winter protection, it
would be a good practice to protect the Miniature rose out-of-doors
also. They can be protected the same way as their larger relatives. |
| Should
Miniature roses be cut back each Spring? |
| Yes. They should be
cut back to about 4 to 6 inches from the ground and all dead
or injured wood removed. It is also advisable to remove any
very slender twiggy growth at the same time. This should be
done in early Spring just as growth is about to begin. |
| Can
Miniature roses be grown outdoors in Summer and then be brought
indoors for Winter? |
| Yes. They may be lifted
from the garden in late Fall or early Winter after they have
been dormant for a month to 6 weeks. Carefully pot them in a
large pot and with well-prepared soil. Water them thoroughly
and gradually subject them to the warm indoor temperatures rather
than bringing them from the cold out-of-doors to the warm indoors.
Then follow the indoor culture. |
| Are
Miniature roses available in bush, tree, and climbing forms,
just as the larger roses? |
| Yes. Miniature roses
are available in all three forms and each one retains its Miniature
characteristics. |
| Are
the trees and climbing forms hardy out-of-doors? |
| Yes, they are somewhat
hardier than the larger roses of the same type. |
| Are
the maintenance requirements for the growing of the Miniature
climber and tree rose the same as for the bush form? |
| Yes. Use the same
culture for all three types. |
| Are
Miniature roses of value as cut flowers? |
| Yes. Miniatures make
excellent arrangements. They last exceptionally long after they
are cut. |
| Are
Miniature roses a relatively new creation in the horticultural
world? |
| No, the older types
of Miniature roses were known as early as 1800 when they were
brought to England aboard the old English trading schooners
from the Orient. The modern Miniature on the market today came
about around 1930. |
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